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The road leading right at the crossroads in Cara Sucia provides access to one of El Salvador's greatest hidden glories, the forest reserve of Bosque El Imposible , so called because of the difficulty of traversing the mountain tracks to get into it. Covering over 31 square kilometres and rising through three climatic zones across the Cordillera de Apaneca, the reserve contains more than 400 species of trees and 1600 species of plants, some of which are unique to the area. Bird-watchers may glimpse some of the more than 300 species, including the emerald toucan, trogons, hummingbirds and eagles, while the park provides a secure habitat for a diverse range of animals, including anteaters, the white-tailed deer, ocelots and the tigrillo, plus over 500 different species of butterfly. Getting to El Imposible without a private vehicle is time-consuming; the operators we've listed all run tours here. It costs US$6 to enter the reserve, which is managed by a non-governmental organization, SalvaNatura (77a Av Nte 304, Col Escalon, San Salvador; tel 263 1111, fax 263 3516, salvanatura@saltel.net ) - you'll need to apply for written permission to visit at least one week in advance, and pay at the same time. When you reach the park the only money you need to pay is if you wish to hire a guide (they hang around the entrance; be prepared to bargain). SalvaNatura also have a small office in the nearby village of San Francisco Menendez , the main point of access for the reserve, reached by a turning off the main highway 4km past Cara Sucia. Some pick-ups run from Cara Sucia to the entrance, but be prepared to leave early and also to haggle. There's another entrance to the park at the Desvio Ahuachapio turn-off from the Carretera Littoral, halfway between the Sonsonate-Acajutla road and Cara Sucia, and about 13.5km from the park itself. This sector of the reserve is called San Benito , and there's a small community, Caserio San Miguelito , actually inside the park, with shops selling handicrafts and a comedor. As yet, there is no formal provision for staying in the reserve - though SalvaNatura are planning to build a hotel in a nearby village; contact them for details.
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