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Nine kilometres southwest of Montezuma, the RESERVA NATURAL ABSOLUTA CABO BLANCO (Wed-Sun 8am-4pm; US$6), established in 1963, is Costa Rica's oldest protected piece of land. At almost twelve square kilometres, Cabo Blanco occupies the entire southwest tip of the peninsula. The natural beauty of the area is complemented by its unique biodiversity, with pockets of Pacific lowland tropical forest of a type and mix that are found nowhere else in the country. Animals that live here include howler monkeys, plus sloths and squirrels. Agoutis and coati are common, as are snakes - so watch your step. Sea birds nest down by the shore, using the islands off the very tip of the peninsula as their prime site, and you'll often see clouds of frigate birds hovering above. You pay your entrance fee (US$6) at the ranger hut, where they'll supply you with a map of the trails, which also outlines the history of the reserve and species found in it. A trail (5km; 2hr) leads from here through tropical deciduous forest to Playa Cabo Blanco and Playa Balsitas - two very lovely, lonely spots, through they're not great for swimming. Be wary of the high tide ( marea ) - ask the ranger at the entrance when and where you're likely to get cut off if walking along the beach. It's very hot : 30°C is not uncommon, so bring a hat, sunblock and five litres of water per person. There's no real need to take a guide - ask at Aventuras de Montezuma in Montezuma if you do decide you want one. No camping is allowed in the reserve, but you can stay in simple rooms just outside the reserve in the house or campsite at Lila's (call the Soda Fin de Luna on 642-0327 and ask for Lila; up to US$5); she'll also cook meals on request. From here it's less than a kilometre to the ranger station, convenient for keen early-morning animal spotters.
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