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The villagers of SAN ANTONIO are descendants of Maya refugees who fled the Caste Wars in Yucatan in 1847; many people still speak Yucatec. Their story is told in a fascinating account of the village's oral history, After 100 Years , by Alfonso Antonio Tzul, available in some bookshops in Belize and from the Tanah Museum. Nestled in the Macal River valley, surrounded by scattered farms, with the forested Maya Mountains in the background, this is a superb place to learn about traditional Maya ways. The Garcia sisters, who grew up in the village, run the Tanah Museum and the simple but comfortable Chichan Ka Guest House (tel 820-4023, tanah-info@awrem.com ; US$15-25) at the approach to the village (buses from San Ignacio stop outside). It's a very relaxing place to stay, traditional meals are served and courses are offered in the gathering and use of medicinal plants. The sisters are also renowned for their slate carvings, and their gift shop has become a favourite tour-group stop. You can also find out here about guided trips to the brand-new Elijio Panti National Park , part of a project to allow the Maya to manage a protected area for conservation and tourism.
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