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Past King's Bay, the coast swings out of view as the Windward Road turns inland. Constant hairpin bends and a steep incline make the going pretty treacherous, so if you're driving, don't let your surroundings become too much of a distraction. Luckily, a designated lookout point has been built before the descent into SPEYSIDE - be sure to stop, as there's an amazing view of the horseshoe Tyrrel's Bay , along with Little Tobago and Goat Island and an expanse of aquamarine coral-reef-strewn water. Speyside feels as remote as it is; just over ten years ago the road was little more than a dirt track. Though the town is slowly adjusting to its latest role as a scuba destination, it still retains its fishing village atmosphere and small-town attitude. The main strip consists of several dive shops, a couple of restaurants, including the well-known Jemma's , and a couple of hotels; Speyside Inn and the Manta Lodge are two of the better ones. As you descend into the village, a cluster of candy-floss-coloured grocery shops and snack bars surround a large playing field - the venue for local football matches - to the right. A dirt track running between the playing field and the sea takes you to the beach facilities, basic changing rooms and toilets (daylight hours; TT$1). The sand here is slightly wider than in the central part of the bay, and the famous reefs , Speyside's main attraction, are within swimming distance. Generally pristine with little sign of bleaching or human damage, the reefs boasts one of the world's largest brain corals , an awesome four metres high and six metres across. Apart from the regular shoals of small fish - butterfly, grunt, angel, parrot and damselfish - the currents also attract a number of deep-water dwellers, including nurse sharks, dolphins and, most notably, manta rays . For those who wish to see more than small fish and limited portions of reef, scuba diving is excellent in this area. The most popular Speyside dive sites include Japanese Gardens, Angel Reef, Bookends and Blackjack Hole, and most dives are of the drift variety. Glass-bottom boats are a good way to see the reefs if you don't want to get wet, though you can always jump overboard for a spot of snorkelling as well. Frank's (tel 868/660-5438), based at Blue Waters Inn , offers a basic tour with snorkelling at Angel Reef, as do local operators Fear Not (tel 868/660-4654) for around US$15. On leaving Speyside, just past the Manta Lodge hotel, the road forks; left takes you across the interior and into Charlotteville, while the right turn is the route to the astonishingly blue waters and rich reefs of Bateaux Bay , site of another luxurious hotel. Beyond Bateaux Bay are the picturesque Belmont and Starwood bays, but the road is often impassable; if so, ask a local fisherman to take you aboard a pirogue. Both bays offer great snorkelling and diving.
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