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From Speyside, the Windward Road strikes inland, climbing steeply upward through jungle-like mountain foliage before plummeting down to the opposite shoreline. Just before the descent, there's a stunning perspective of Charlotteville ; houses tumble down a hillside to be met by calm Caribbean waters. Snugly situated under the protective cover of the two-kilometre-wide Man O' War Bay , Charlotteville is Tobago's foremost fishing community - more than 60 percent of the island's total catch is brought in by local fishermen. The town has an isolated feel, and though the tourist dollar is steadily encroaching upon this self-contained community, the atmosphere is so friendly that it's hard not to relax. Charlotteville is actually one of Tobago's oldest communities, first settled by Caribs and then by the Dutch in 1633. Increasingly popular as a retreat, accommodation gets booked up quickly, Cholson Chalets and the Man O' War Bay Cottages are the best options, though a number of locals will rent you a room in their house if the situation's desperate. There's little to do but arrange a fishing trip, while away the hours on the fine brown sand of Man O' War Bay beach (changing facilities, daylight hours; TT$1) or enjoy the excellent snorkelling in the sublime Pirate's Bay . Benches along the sea wall, the fishing pier and a covered pavilion are popular liming spots, great for soaking up the village scene. In July, Man O' War Bay is the site of Tobago's most popular fisherman's fete, held to celebrate St Peter's Day . Charlotteville's petrol station is open Monday to Saturday 6am-8pm and Sunday 6-11am & 8.15-8.30pm.
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