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SCARBOROUGH , Tobago's raucous, hot and dusty capital (population 18,000), spills higgledy-piggledy down the hillside. The island's administrative centre and its main port , the flourishing town is devoid of touristic pretensions. Don't expect a very cosmopolitan atmosphere, though; the docking of the ferry from Trinidad is spectacle enough to draw crowds of onlookers. As the commercial centre of the island, one of the town's main attractions is the shopping. The town's market , located opposite the docks, with its fruit and vegetables display, bargain crafts and excellent fast food, is a must; main trading days are Friday and Saturday. And the Fort King George complex perched on the lighthouse-topped hill contains a local craft centre (Mon-Fri 9am-1pm) with more unusual items. This complex, at the top of the well-signposted Fort Street, is free to enter and contains a landscaped park , the largest fortification in Tobago, Fort King George , and at 140m above sea level, excellent views. It is also the site of the unmissable Tobago Museum (Mon-Fri 9am-5pm; TT$5, children TT$1). Collated by the Tobago Trust, the small but fascinating collection includes Amerindian artefacts, satirical colonial prints from slavery days, African drums and notes on local culture. Away from the commercial clamour, the peaceful botanical gardens (daily, daylight hours; free), opposite the bus station on Gardenside Street, offer respite from the traffic and steep climbs that can make Scarborough a bit of an ordeal; visiting on an overcast day makes sightseeing more comfortable. The nearby orchid house displays most of T&T's indigenous orchids as well as a few imported species. As Scarborough is so small, there are no bus services within the town, but you can easily see all the sights by foot. For information , head to the tourism offices of the Tobago House of Assembly, on the third floor of the NIB Mall, behind the market (8am-4pm; tel 868/639-2125 or 4636, fax 639-3566, tourbago@tstt.net.tt ). Free parking is available at the wharf lot on the corner of Carrington and Castries streets. Scarborough is the departure point for route taxis serving the whole of the island; ask a local to find the appropriate stand. Maxis to Charlotteville leave two or three times a day from outside James Park on Burnett Street (TT$12). Three good accommodation options, for Scarborough as well as a base for the rest of the island, are: the Blue Haven hotel for the well-heeled, Hope Cottage for those on a budget and Mount Pelier Cottage for those who like the personal eccentric touch.
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