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Bisecting Tobago's low-lying southwest tip, ruler-straight Milford Road is the artery of the area, a busy main road traversing the Bon Accord, Tyson Hall, Canaan and Friendship communities. One community melts seamlessly into another, but as this is probably the most well-travelled thoroughfare on the island, the strip rapidly becomes familiar. North of the road is Bon Accord Lagoon , a sweeping oval of mangrove swamp and reef-sheltered, shallow water which forms one of the most important fish nurseries on the island. The lagoon, despite suffering pollution in the past, is a sanctuary for conch, snails, shrimp, oysters, crab, urchins and sponges - though the thick sea grass makes them difficult to spot. The land is difficult to access, so it's best to go with a guide; Adolphus James (tel 868/639-2231) is recommended. No Man's Land adjoining the lagoon is a beautiful deserted beach, often featured on boat cruises and an idyllic place to swim, a good place to escape the hotel-dominated area - for a budget place to stay check Sunshine Holiday Apartments. A kilometre or so before Milford Road widens into Claude Noel Highway, Shirvan Road strikes off to the left. This is the route to Buccoo Bay and its famous reef as well as several wide yellow-sand beaches and the neat coastal town of Plymouth. The first stretch is bordered to the left by a plantation of towering coconut palms and to the right by thick hedges masking what was once Shirvan Park horse-racing track , now The Lush , the place to "large it". Studded with swanky restaurants, upmarket hotels, fruit stalls and simple board shacks, Shirvan Road continues north, passing turn-offs to quietly residential Mount Pleasant and Carnbee Village - the latter has a supermarket and petrol station
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