|
Beyond Arnos Vale, the leeward coast feels more remote than any other part of the island; tourist development is minimal, leaving the ravishing beaches at Castara, Englishman's Bay, Parlatuvier and Bloody Bay much the same as they were twenty years ago. Fishing is the main industry of the area, and you'll often see machete-wielding fellows trudging the route to small-scale plantations or meandering along with a pack of hunting dogs. Inland of Castara, the protected forest reserve is traversed by the Roxborough-Parlatuvier Road. Though the rainforest canopy looks impenetrable, even the most confirmed city-dweller should find the managed trails. Though the area is accessible from Crown Point along the coast road via Plymouth, the twists and turns in the route make for a long drive. In fact, the quickest route to the leeward coast is along the Northside Road , which begins on the outskirts of Scarborough at Calder Hall, off the Claude Noel Highway. The road then works its way across the island to the leeward coast where it follows the coastline, passing through all of the settlements on this side. Castara is an attractive fishing village that's slowly developing a nonchalant tourist-friendliness; low-key guesthouses are scattered on a hillside, while visitors dribble in to swim at the marvellous beach or splash in the nearby waterfall. Fishing remains the main earner at present, and the beach is one of the best places to participate in the pulling of a seine net , still in constant use by the supremely friendly posse of Rasta fishermen. The village abandons its languid air each August, when the beach is packed with revellers attending the Castara Fishermen's Fete , one of Tobago's biggest. It's also the only place along this stretch of coast that has accommodation for the foreign visitor. The Blue Mango cottages are the best option if you can afford them. Past Castara, houses and shops melt away and the road is flanked by enormous bamboo. The next worthy beach, Englishman's Bay (look out for the blue and white sign), is utterly beautiful and completely undeveloped save for a stall near the entrance serving hot meals (including roti on Sundays), soft drinks and bamboo craft. East of Englishman's Bay, the coast road climbs upward and inland, passing through the diminutive community of Parrot Hall before descending to reveal one of the most arresting views on the island: Parlatuvier Bay , flanked by an absurdly pretty hillside scattered with palms, terraced provision grounds and the odd house. Another crescent of pearly sand, the bay makes swimming a vigorous experience: waves are usually quite strong and the water deepens sharply from the sand. The last accessible beach on the coast is Bloody Bay , another deserted shoreline; the right turn at the Bloody Bay junction takes you to the Tobago Forest Reserve . Known as the Roxborough-Parlatuvier Road, the route to the reserve makes for a steep but beautifully quiet drive through the rainforest. The oldest protected rainforest in the western hemisphere is easily accessed at Gilpin Trace , marked by a huge slab of rock by the road in front of a forestry division hut. A trail strikes straight into the forest from here, but unless you only plan to go a few hundred yards, it's advisable to hire a guide (often waiting by the roadside; TT$100-200); you'll understand a lot more about forest dynamics, and you won't need to worry about getting lost.
Your Tip for Leeward coast
Help other backpackers! Write your own guides and backpacking tips to Leeward coast - they will appear instantly on this page - Please only write a tip/guide to Leeward coast - visit the main Leeward coast forum to ask a question!
Please do not post links to your site here (they won't work) - please use the Leeward coast webguide section below! Thanks.
| 
