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Ranged around the broad, grassy expanse of the Queen's Park Savannah and framed by the foothills of the Northern Range, Port of Spain's uptown district oozes prosperity. Along the wide boulevards that ring the Savannah, the palatial mansions of the colonial plantocracy compete with the Hilton hotel, the residences of the republic's president and prime minister, and the glitzy modern headquarters of insurance companies. Away from this circuit of roads, the streets exude the sober opulence of embassy quarters, untouched by the urban razzmatazz of downtown Port of Spain. The Queen's Park Savannah is Port of Spain's largest open space. Within the 3.7-kilometre circuit of its perimeter roads, its grassy expanse is crisscrossed by paths and shaded by the spreading branches of old samaan trees. Often deserted during the hot daylight hours, the Savannah comes to life after 4pm, with football games, joggers, and couples and families taking an early evening stroll. At this time, food stalls, serving tasty snacks such as roasted corn, bake and shark, pholouri and rotis are set up. All Carnival competitions, including Panorama, Dimanche Gras, Parade of the Bands and Champs in Concert , are held in the grandstands on the southern side of the park. Many other events take place here, including performances by visiting international artists. Though the seats are numbingly hard, the setting is incomparably atmospheric, with performances taking place against a backdrop of the mountains and the starry Caribbean sky. At the top end of Frederick Street, as the Savannah comes into view, stands the imposing, gabled National Museum and Art Gallery (Tues-Sat 10am-6pm, Sun 2-6pm; free) at the corner of Keate Street. The museum's collection is extensive and wide-ranging, covering everything from early Amerindian history and the technology of the oil industry to an excellent collection of works by local artists . Worth a couple hours of browsing, the museum provides an essential overview of the history, economy and culture of Trinidad and Tobago. One of the finest of the many mansions surrounding the Queen's Park Savannah is the ornately decorated Knowsley Building , on the corner of Queen's Park West and Chancery Lane. Resembling a fantasy doll's house, it's one of numerous examples of the work of Glaswegian architect George Brown, who introduced the mass production of fretted woodwork to the islands. Boissiere House , on the corner of Cipriani Boulevard and Queen's Park West, is perhaps the best example of the style, with a whimsical concoction of fretted wooden finials and bargeboards, stained glass depicting meandering strawberry vines and a small pagoda-like roof over one room. North of Queen's Park West on Maraval Road stands a bizarre group of mansions affectionately known as the Magnificent Seven , a magical-realist parade of European architectural styles with a tropical slant. Constructed between 1904 and 1910, the remarkable buildings are the result of the competing egos of rival plantation owners, each of whom tried to outdo their neighbours in grandeur. Standouts among them are Queen's Royal College , first of the seven, built in Germanic Renaissance style, and now Trinidad's most prestigious school (former pupils include authors V.S. and Shiva Naipaul and the country's first prime minister, Eric Williams); Whitehall , a Venetian-style palazzo whose gleaming white paint gives it the air of a freshly iced birthday cake; and Killarney , or Stollmeyer, as it is sometimes known, which stands at the northern end. This fairy-tale castle, bristling with turrets and spires, was modelled on Queen Victoria's residence at Balmoral. Unfortunately none of these buildings is open to the public. On the northern side of the Savannah is the Emperor Valley Zoo (daily 9.30am-6pm, last tickets sold at 5.30pm; TT$4, children 3-12 years TT$2). A magnet for local kids, it's worth a wander to get a close-up look at Trinidadian species that you're unlikely to see in the wild. Its collection of relatively well-kept animals is reputedly the most extensive in the Caribbean, including brocket deer, quenk , a large selection of monkeys , aquarium fish and snakes, as well as ocelots, spectacled caiman and numerous birds , including parrots, toucans and scarlet ibis. Next door to the zoo, and spreading back from the Savannah toward the President's House, are the exquisite Botanical Gardens (daily 6am-6pm; free), home to one of the oldest collections of exotic plants and trees in the western hemisphere. There are no official guides, though for a small fee unofficial guides will take you round - a good idea as most of the labels have disappeared. A small cemetery within the gardens contains the crumbling gravestones of many of the island's governors. Behind the Botanical Gardens stands the President's House , a stately villa built in 1876. Behind it, hidden from view, is the Prime Minister's Residence . Both buildings are closed to the public.
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