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MARACAS BAY , a 45-minute drive from Port of Spain, is more than a beach, it's an institution. Hundreds make the traditional Sunday pilgrimage from Port of Spain to see and be seen. It's also the island's main Ash Wednesday chill-out spot, where revellers come to relax after the mayhem of Carnival, and sound systems keep the prostrated bodies twitching to the beat. On weekdays it's much quieter - the sand is almost empty and the extensive facilities look a bit out of place. A generous 1850-metre curve of fine off-white sand fringed with groves of palm trees is bordered by Maracas BayVillage , a fishing hamlet, on the west, and Uncle Sam and Son' s bar - pumping out reggae and soca - on the east. Swimming out to sea, you'll get a sublime view of the beach and the cloud-tipped peaks of the Northern Range. The water is usually clear, though the tides and undercurrents are often dangerously strong; stick to the areas between red and yellow flags and listen to the lifeguards (daily 10am-6pm). The extensive facilities include numerous tasty bake and shark vendors ( Richard's and Natalie's are the best), a huge car park (TT$10) and changing facilities (daily 10am-6pm; TT$1). The sole supplier of watersports is Blackbeard's, renting windsurfers (TT$100 per day), boogie boards (TT$20 per hour), surf kayaks (TT$30 per hour), banana rides - inflatable bananas holding up to four people (TT$25 for 10min) and also beach chairs, umbrellas and hammocks (TT$20 per day). The petrol station (daily 7am-7pm) on the eastern edge of Maracas Bay is the last on this section of coast, so it's wise to fill up if you haven't already done so. Further east of Maracas is the smaller Tyrico Bay , inexplicably popular with the Indian community, and with slightly less wave action, a better choice for those travelling with children. Lifeguards are on duty daily 10am-6pm.
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