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After an inland curve that provides impressive views of the jagged double apex of Mount El Tucuche, Trinidad's second highest mountain, the North Coast Road turns back to the sea at Las Cuevas Bay , the north coast's second most popular strip of sand. Headlands enclose the bay in a tight horseshoe, affording protection from the wind and a relatively gentle surf - lifeguards put out yellow and red flags to mark safe bathing spots. Currently there's a car park above the bay (free), as well as changing rooms, showers and toilets (10am-6pm; TT$1) and a bar serving budget-priced creole food. Planning permission has been granted for a large hotel on the beach - including a golf course - so catch the sleepy village while you can. The only drawback to the beach is the legendary sandfly population - take repellent and try to cover up as the day wears on. On the eastern outskirts of Las Cuevas, the secluded One Thousand Steps Beach is ideal for a secluded swim, but keep to a depth you can stand in - the tides can be strong even on apparently calm days. The beach is opposite Rincon Trace, which is the route to the spectacular Rincon Waterfall , a two-and-a-half-hour uphill walk through the bush. You'll need a guide to find this and the nearby Angel Falls ; guides have to be arranged in advance as few tourists trek this way. Laurence Pierre (tel 868/634-4284) is recommended. For those taking public transport, North Coast Road maxis and taxis from Port of Spain (corner of George and Prince streets, TT$15-16) travel this route to Blanchisseuse, as does the rural bus service from City Gate, but all tend to be clustered around peak hours. Past the tiny villages of La Filette and Yarra is Blanchisseuse (pronounced "blaan-she-shers"), the last village before the road tails off into the bush. With a population of around three thousand and an attractive assortment of weather-beaten board houses wreathed by rambling bougainvillea, Blanchisseuse isn't exactly a hamlet, and the clutch of ever-growing flashy holiday homes on the western outskirts are testament to its growing popularity as a retreat. The atmosphere is relaxed and supremely friendly, and there are as many local holiday-makers as there are foreign. Tourists divide their time between enjoying the succession of marvellous sandy beaches , hiring a local guide and hiking through the rainforest, and river swimming in the nearby Three Pools, Paria Beach and waterfall , or the Avocat Waterfall . Local Eric Blackman, owner of Northern Sea View Villa , is a good guide with tours including Three Pools with kayaking, hiking and swimming (TT$80 per person), Avocat Waterfall (TT$50) and a four-hour walk to Paria (TT$50). Take note that Blanchisseuse's three beaches have a reputation for rough and treacherous waters , particularly between November and February, so keep to a depth you can stand in, though the large waves are popular with local surfers. Marianne is the main beach stretching around 2km. At the eastern end the Marianne river lagoon is an inviting place to swim and you can also rent kayaks (TT$20 for 30min) from here. It's also an excellent place for birdwatching. Beyond Blanchisseuse, the North Coast Road gives way to the only remaining piece of undeveloped coastline in Trinidad. The next piece of tarmac is some 30km away in Matelot, leaving intact a sanctuary for bird and animal life, with gorgeous waterfalls and stunning beaches that are the favourite nesting sites for leatherback turtles . Through all this cuts the north coast bench trail , a two-day hike that requires camping in the bush along the way, though shorter options are available. If you prefer a solitary walk, go during the week; Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays are prime times for local hiking groups. A good local guide is Carl Fitz-James Jr (tel 868/667-5968).
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