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Inland from Blanchisseuse, the Arima-Blanchisseuse Road cuts south through the Northern Range, climbing high into misty peaks and through a tunnel-like road of green with overhanging canopies of mahogany, teak, poui, cedar and immortelle. There are impressive mountain views throughout the drive and you're more or less guaranteed to see birdlife wherever you stop; crested oropendola, hummingbirds and hawk-eagles are commonplace. For those wanting greater insight into the rainforest, naturalist Courtenay Rooks (tel 868/622-8826, fax 628-1525, ) does excellent nature hikes and birdwatching trips starting from US$45. He can also sort you out local accommodation if necessary. Seven miles north of Arima lies a birdwatcher's paradise, the Asa Wright Nature Centre (PO Box 4710, Arima, Trinidad; tel 868/667-4655; bookings in US via Caligo Ventures tel 1-800/426-7781, ; US$100-160). The 800,000-square-metre estate was established as a conservation area in 1967 and today the centre is Trinidad's most popular birdwatching retreat, with hummingbirds, honeycreepers, tanagers and manakins among the forty species making frequent visits to the verandah feeders. The centre offers luxurious accommodation, rates including three meals and afternoon tea. However, if you're not staying, it's a good idea to get there before 10am to avoid the rush - the centre's on many a tour-bus route and the excited squeals of an unusual sighting and the whirr and click of paparazzi-standard zoom lenses can spoil the peaceful setting. Open daily 9am-5pm, the entrance fee (US$10) includes an hour-and-a-half tour and access to the verandah. Residents of more than three nights get a tour of Dunston Cave , which houses the world's most accessible colony of oilbirds .
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