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In refreshing contrast to the smoggy, industrialized central west coast, central Trinidad's east coast features nothing more than miles of sand and endless coconut palms. South of Sangre Grande, the largest town in the east, the coast is dominated by the Cocal , 24km of unbroken sand, lined by grove upon grove of swaying coconut palms. The air is raucous with the calls of the red-chested macaws , and street vendors line the road selling crabs, cascadura, armoured catfish and watermelon, when in season. So far, the owners of the east coast coconut estates have declined to sell the property to hotel developers, and Manzanilla beach and the protected Nariva Swamp retain their idyllic seclusion. Deserted during the week, but popular at weekends, take care while swimming as the undercurrents can be dangerous. There are changing facilities at the northern end (daily 10am-6pm; TT$1). If you're planning to visit Manzanilla for the Ash Wednesday or Easter beach parties, try to get there early - it's not unknown for the traffic jams to start as far back as Valencia, some twenty kilometres to the northwest. The only hotel directly on the beach along this stretch of coast is the well-signposted Calypso Inn (tel 868/668-5113, fax 668-5116, onthebeach@1funplace.com ; US$50-75). Beautifully located on the sands between Manzanilla and Matura, their smart double rooms have A/C, TV and a balcony overlooking the sea. There is also a bar and restaurant on site.
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