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Just over half a mile off the Anse de Sables shore are the two scrubby, windswept cays that comprise the Maria Islands Nature Reserve . Both islands are breeding areas for numerous sea birds , including the booby and frigate, and are home to two rare reptiles, one of which - the kouwes snake - is found nowhere else in the world. About a metre long with dark green and brown markings, the harmless kouwes ("couresse") once thrived on the mainland but was eradicated by the mongooses introduced by sugarcane planters; today, they number a mere one hundred or so. The other reptile is St Lucia's zandoli te , or ground lizard, found only on the Maria Islands and nearby Praslin Island on the east coast, were some of their number were transferred due to the extreme aridity of the Marias in the dry season. At around 35cm long with a bright blue tail and a yellow belly, the male is easily recognized; females are brown with darker vertical stripes, and therefore less ostentatious. There's a short but comely beach of golden sand on the larger of the two islands, Maria Major, with a reef a few metres offshore. Several unmarked and unchallenging trails loop around the islands, and though it's difficult to get lost on such tiny pieces of land, no one is allowed on the Marias without an authorized guide from the St Lucia National Trust. To arrange one, phone or call in at the Maria Islands Interpretive Centre. Costing EC$94 for one person and EC$80 per person for groups of two or more, the trips begin at the centre and consist of walking tours of the islands as well as stops for swimming and snorkelling (bring your own gear). Though you can arrange Saturday or Sunday trips, the centre is open only on weekdays, and its hours can be erratic - it's always best to call ahead.
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