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A few miles north of Middle Island, the conical 800ft Brimstone Hill hulks over the flatlands, its name derived from the sulphuric odours exuding from nearby underwater vents. The British mustn't have minded the smell since they chose the hill's flanks to support a fortress (daily 9.30am-5.30pm; US$5) so grand it was nicknamed the "Gibraltar of the West Indies". Started in 1690 and expanded over the course of the following century, the sprawling garrison ultimately proved insufficient defence - it was captured by the French in 1782 after a one-month siege. The Paris Treaty forced its return a year later, but the fortress fell into disuse as relations eased between the warring nations and the dwindling economics of sugarcane production meant island resources no longer needed protection. Abandoned in 1853 and left to deteriorate until 1965, an ambitious restoration project has returned the fortress to its former splendour, and earned it UNESCO World Heritage Site recognition in 2000. The prominent hilltop compound, the Citadel , provides spectacular views from its parapets. The fortifications themselves surround a water catchment system. The enclosing barracks house an eclectic museum showcasing military paraphernalia, Carib tools and decorative adornos (small clay figurines) and a rubbing of the petroglyphs at Old Road Town. On the grassy parade, stairs access the lower bastions on a promontory with a tiny military cemetery outside the rampart walls. A canteen near the steps serves snacks, or you can picnic. Note that the bus to Brimstone Hill drops you off on the main island road, after which it's another 2km on foot up a very steep hill.
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