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Nevis' ATLANTIC COAST , a scenic haven of rustic settlements with evocative names like Brick Kiln, is completely devoid of resorts and beachfront but nonetheless worth the detour for its historic remnants. Centuries-old stone ovens still line the road and some houses rest on piled rocks, holdouts from the days when landless squatters had to move from plantation to plantation. Rambling GINGERLAND begins south of the crumbling ruins of the reputedly haunted Eden Brown Estate and stretches along the southern coast to the outskirts of Charlestown. Known for the island's largest concentration of sugar plantations, which have since been transformed into inviting inns , the region's otherworldy charm and lush vegetation make it idyllic. Lord Nelson and Fanny Nisbet obviously thought so - they opted to hold their nuptials in Fig Tree village's picturesque 1680 St John's Anglican church . The only other sight is a botanical garden (Mon-Sat 9am-4.30pm; closed Sun; US$9) near Montpelier Inn where stepped terraces burgeon with violet orchids and Spanish-moss-draped trees. Be sure to visit the rainforest conservatory showcasing inland Nevis' inland flora; the resident speaking parrots are a lark.
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