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Slightly inland and south of Ocean Park, SANTURCE is a neighbourhood in transition with a growing art scene that's outstripping its dodgy reputation. Once a fashionable business and residential neighbourhood, it had its share of social problems in the latter half of the twentieth century. While Santurce still has some undesirable sections, the city's best art museums are here, along with some fine restaurants and funky cafes. There are also a growing number of galleries that have relocated here from Hato Rey, bringing young artists with them. It's worth a visit, but try to come with a companion, stay on well-travelled streets and walk with caution after dark. The new Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico is at 300 Av Jose de Diego (Tues-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 11am-6pm; US$5, US$3 students; tel 787/977-6277, ). Its permanent collection, occupying the Neoclassical west wing, traces the evolution of Puerto Rican art from the sixteenth century to the present. The east wing showcases a five-storey stained-glass window by local artist Eric Tabales, which overlooks an extraordinary five-acre sculpture garden and lily pond. Don't miss the collection of santos , saints carved in wood. The museum also houses chef Wilo Benet's masterpiece restaurant Pikayo . Another museum of note is located on the campus of Universidad del Sagrado Corazon, just off Avenida Ponce de Leon on Calle Rosale. The Museo del Arte Contemporaneo Puertorriqueno (Mon- Fri 8am-5pm; Sat 9am-5pm; free; tel 787/728-1515, ext 2408) is the island's best showcase for paintings, sculpture, photography and new-media works by young internationally known Puerto Rican artists, such as Rosa Irigoyen and Pepon Osorio. On Calle Canals, with an entrance marked by large, metallic avocados, the open-air Plaza Mercado is packed with stalls selling fresh produce, sandwiches, flowers, meats, cheese and the like, and is always crowded with locals doing their daily shopping. On Friday evenings, it makes for an interesting happy hour - all types, from suits to young artists, come here to hang out on into the night.
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