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Walk up Recinto Oeste until you come upon the unmistakable Fuerte San Felipe del Morro (daily 9am-5pm; tours in English depart at 11am & 3pm; US$2; tel 787/729-6960), known simply as El Morro . A bulwark if ever there was one, it covers the headland of San Juan Bay with a sprawling fortress that rises 140 feet above the Atlantic. Built between 1540 and 1783, the thick walls are so old and weathered they have begun to look like outcroppings of bedrock, as though six levels of towers, barracks, secret passageways, dungeons and ramps were carved from a natural cliff. Even if military history isn't your thing, the views of the ocean, El Yunque and the Cordillera Central are superlative. Heading back into town along Calle del Morro, you'll reach the Museo de las Americas , at Calle Norzagaray (Tues-Fri 10am-4pm, Sat & Sun 11am-5pm, free; tel 787/724-5052). Housed in the former military barracks of the Cuartel de Ballaja, it showcases North and South American folk art. Just south of the museum, follow Calle Beneficencia to the 500-year-old Plaza San Jose and the Iglesia San Jose (weekdays except Thurs 7am-3pm; Sat 8am-1pm; Sun Mass at noon). The church's pristine facade belies the fact that it's the second oldest church in the western hemisphere. Built by Dominican friars in 1523, the family of Juan Ponce de Leon worshipped under its vaulted Spanish Gothic ceilings. The adjacent Convento los Dominicos (Mon-Sat 9am-5pm) was also built in 1523, to accommodate the Dominican monks. Nearby, the Museo Pablo Casals , 101 Calle Sebastian (Tues-Sat 9.30am-5.30pm; US$1; tel 787/723-9185) houses manuscripts, photographs and instruments of the famed Spanish cellist who lived in Puerto Rico from 1956 until 1973. A museum of a different sort, the Museo de Arte e Historia de San Juan , is on Calle Norzagaray at Calle MacArthur (Tues-Sun 10am-4pm; free; tel 787/724-1875). Something of a cultural centre, it showcases Puerto Rican art and music, and hosts a number of concerts and festivals.
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