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Nowhere evokes old Martinique better than secluded GRAND'RIVIERE , a jewel of a fishing village huddled on lowlands framed by Mont-Pelee's dramatic flanks. The drive from Basse-Pointe alone makes a visit worthwhile - the thirty-minute route is the island's most thrilling, with tight hairpin turns, overgrown hillsides and bridges suspended over gorges. The roller coaster ends at the village's black-sand beach, and the only way to go forward from here is by foot or sea. A syndicat d'initiative facing the town church (Mon-Fri 8am-5pm, Sat & Sun 9am-1pm or in high season 4pm; tel 0596/55 72 74), organizes outings for around ?30. You can dig into crayfish and coconut sorbet at Chez Tante Arlette , a creole restaurant near the syndicat d'initiative , with generous three-course prix-fixe menus. There's also a handful of simple rooms upstairs (tel 0596/55 75 75; US$50-75 with breakfast).
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