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North of St-Pierre, the coastal road rims the Caribbean after passing the Tombeau des Caraibes , the limestone cliff from which the last of the Carib chieftains committed suicide in 1658 - after swallowing poison - rather than submit to colonialization. The villages along this quiet northern stretch, Le Precheur and Anse Belleville , are among the island's oldest, and their harbours make a picturesque prelude to the Habitation Ceron (daily 9.30am-5pm; ?6), a secluded seventeenth-century sugar plantation that now cultivates bananas, cocoa and crayfish. As you leave the plantation, turn right to reach Anse Ceron , a relatively secluded black-sand beach equipped with changing facilities and a snack bar. For total isolation, forge onwards on the N2 as it ascends a jungly mountain road before descending to Anse Couleuvre , a magnificent emerald bay with a volcanic sand beach. A path to the left of the car park hits the sand in short order; a longer one to the right passes the ruins of a chocolate plantation, the aroma of which still pervades the air. The latter trail is also the start of a grinding eighteen-kilometre (6hr), walk to Grand'Riviere.
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