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Often likened to a miniature Paris, FORT-DE-FRANCE is stunning to behold when arriving by sea, with its panorama of colonial houses and multiple church steeples wrapping around the Baie des Flamands and ascending into the surrounding moutainside. The capital city is, unfortunately, much better seen from afar than up close - its main streets, even high-fashion rue Victor-Hugo , are pretty grubby, with peeling paint and sagging frames. The town is also much better by day; at night, it's sketchy, with public squares plied by vagrants and prostitutes. The best day to visit is Saturday before lunch, when the streets fill with locals and tourists alike, and the sounds of tam tam and steel drums resonate throughout the main core.
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