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Some six miles east of YS Falls, the Wray and Nephewrum estate at APPLETON (Mon-Sat 9am-3.30pm; US$12; tel 876/963-9215, ) has a great setting in the Black River valley among thousands of acres of sugarcane fields. At 250 years old, this is the oldest rum producer in the English-speaking Caribbean and the best-known of Jamaica's several brands. You'll need a car to get here, or you can take a taxi from the nearby village of Maggotty. It's a good idea to call ahead to arrange a visit, if only to avoid arriving at the same time as a big tour party. The thirty-minute tour starts with a complimentary drink, followed by a whirlwind trip through the factory and warehouses and then outside to an old press, where donkeys used to walk in circles to turn a grinder that crushed juice out of the sugarcane. The tour concludes in a "saloon", where you can sample all seventeen kinds of rum and various rum-based liquors. The prices in the adjacent shop are far lower than supermarket prices.
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