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As the clamour of Ocho Rios recedes, the A3 coast road switchbacks through the countryside toward the slow, close-knit communities of Oracabessa and Port Maria , where tourism is only just starting to take hold. Though ostensibly quiet, the area has long been a favourite haunt of the rich and famous. Noel Coward and Ian Fleming (creator of James Bond) both lived here in the 1950s and '60s, and their old homes, Firefly and Goldeneye , are still standing, with Firefly now a prime tourist site and Goldeneye the centrepiece of a luxury villa complex.
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