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The N2 hugs the coastline as it makes its way south, passing a slew of charming fishing villages with deep bays. The only diversion of note before Basse-Terre, the Musee du Cafe (daily 9am-5pm; ?5.34), on the outskirts of Vieux-Habitants, is a working coffee mill that produces some seriously strong Arabica beans - you can get a buzz on a complimentary cup at the end of the visit. You'll know you've reached the outskirts of the French West Indies' first settlement, BASSE-TERRE , when traffic comes to a halt. There's not much pay-off once you reach the centre, as Guadeloupe's administrative capital is a hot, downtrodden place with little to recommend it. The main public square, Place du Champs d'Arbaud , is a concrete eyesore, and many of the surrounding buildings are modern structures more suitable to a busy French suburb than a Caribbean island. While the town core is pretty unappealing, two sights at Basse-Terre's southern outskirts are worth checking out if you've come this far. Notre-Dame-du-Mont-Carmel , a church fronted by Art Nouveau lamps, is reputed for its curative powers - look for marble thank-you plaques along the apse. Nearby loom the commanding ruins of the 1643 Fort Delgres (daily 8am-5.30pm; free). The fort never saw battle, but its military cemetery contains the tomb of one of Guadeloupe's first governors, Admiral Gourbeyre. To get there, follow the signs for Fort St-Charles - the fort has gone through several name changes and the latest has yet to make it on signage. While there's little point staying in town, if you get hungry , La Taverne , on avenue du General Felix-Eboue, across from the town square, has inexpensive wheat pizzas and wine.
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