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The first settlement north of La Traversee, quiet POINTE-NOIR owes its name to the dark volcanic highlands that encircle - and shade - its tangled streets. Some rays filter through to Plage Caraibe , a gritty beach just south of town where a friendly dive outfit (tel 0590/99 90 95, fax 99 92 69) organizes outings to the depths around Ilets Pigeon and rents snorkelling gear. The locals - known as Ponti-Neris - are renowned for their Arabica coffee beans; some perfume the grounds of the magnificently restored Cafeiere Beausejour (Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 10am-6pm; closed Mon in Sept & Mon-Thurs in Oct; ; ?6.10), a plantation house with stunning sea views. Ponti-Neris are equally adept carpenters, and you can check out the tools of their trade and mahogany furnishings at the Maison du Bois (Mon-Sat 9.30am-4.30pm; ?0.76), near the southern outskirts. Opposite is Guadeloupe's only campsite , the hospitable Camping de la Traversee (tel 0590/98 21 23, fax 98 25 23; up to US$25), with pleasant grounds, access to a pebble beach, and some casual, fan-only double bungalows with balconies and kitchenettes.
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