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From El Castillo a dirt road extends west and heads to a series of beaches that relatively few foreign visitors make it to. There are two rivers to be crossed en route, and a 4x4 is recommended. After 14km, a turn-off heads north to Playa Ensanata , where many Dominican families come to take advantage of the shallow waters. The beach is lined with shacks where you can eat grilled, freshly caught fish extremely cheaply. Just around the point from Playa Ensanata, Punta Rucia is yet another beautiful beach, featuring bone-white sand and more great mountain views. It attracts fewer people than Ensanata and is dotted with fishing boats, but has several good places to stop for lunch or a beer. At Punta Rucia's western edge is Punta Rucia Sol (tel 809/471-0173; up to US$25), a German-owned hotel with a few simple but pleasant rooms with private cold-water baths. It has a decent restaurant and a very laid-back, tranquil ambience. There are a few down-home Dominican seafood restaurants on Punta Rucia as well.
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