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SAN CRISTOBAL , Trujillo's hometown, enjoyed its heyday during his rule; today the cramped, asphalt city qualifies as one of the country's least appealing. That said, it is well situated for exploring the unforgettable El Pomier caves to the north. From the town it's 20km due north to the caves; if you don't have your own transport, pick-up truck guaguas leave every thirty minutes from the north end of San Cristobal's public market. Reserva Arqueologica El Pomier (daily 9.30am-5pm; RD$50) protects the most extensive collection of cave paintings in the Caribbean, though this claim to fame draws strangely few visitors. Upon arrival, you'll be assigned a park guide who expects a RD$40 tip and will take you to the first of three enormous, easily accessible chambers; the first alone holds 600 pictographs. Alternately, you can head north on a guagua from the parque central in San Cristobal to La Toma (daily 8.30am-7.30pm; RD$5, parking RD$20), a series of large cemented pools supplied with fresh water from the Haina River. The only hotel in San Cristobal is basic but clean Aparta-Hotel Ayala , Padre Ayala 110 (tel 809/528-3040; up to US$25). Dining choices are also limited; try Plaza Carolina , General Cabral one block south of Constitucion, an outdoor comida criolla spot.
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