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Heading south from Roseau, the coastal road winds past green hillsides on the way to the pretty fishing village of SOUFRIERE . The main attraction here is Champagne Beach , named for the bubbles in the offshore waters, created by hot springs in the depths of nearby Soufriere Bay , a protected marine park. The bay itself has a calm cove, good snorkelling, and you can rent diving, kayaking and snorkelling gear on the village outskirts at top-quality Nature Island Dive (tel 767/449-8181, tel 449-8182, ). You can check out the source of the hot springs one mile inland from Soufriere, at Sulphur Springs (daily 9am-5pm; EC$2). Beyond Soufriere, an unpaved road curves around the bay to delightful SCOTTS HEAD , a village of brightly painted tin shacks and equally colourful fishing boats moored below a teardrop-shaped peninsula. A stroll to the tip of the headland reveals vestiges of Fort Cachacrou , a defence post dating from the early 1700s, and awesome coastal views. The surrounding waters shelter Dominica's best diving , and are visited by migrating whales from November through April, often visible from land. Back in the village, fresh bread is sold from porch-side baskets, and coffee and hard drinks poured at roadside shacks - that's pretty much the only food around apart from the expensive waterfront Sundowner Cafe , which cooks up fresh fish, lobster and crab, and mixes a potent rum punch. The cafe's owners run a small hotel , opposite, Herche's Place (tel 767/448-7749, ; US$75-100), whose clean rooms come with fan and TV. The only other lodging nearby is the exquisite Petit Coulibri (tel 767/tel 446-3150, ; US$200-250); its secluded, upscale cottages have fabulous ocean views and are set to reopen in 2003 after renovations.
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