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At the park's southwestern edges, the twin waterfalls known as Trafalgar Falls crash down a sheer 200ft rockface. The upper falls flow from the roiling currents at Titou Gorge while the lower are fed by the Trois Pitons River, which itself originates in the Boiling Lake region. The falls are easily accessible along a short trail, shaded by flowering bowers and canopied trees, that starts from Papillote Wilderness Retreat . While most visitors are content to enjoy the falls from a raised viewing platform at the end of an easy walk, the more adventurous can forge ahead, with the help of a guide, down to the lower falls' base for a dip in the sizeable pool. You can stay near the falls at the upscale Papillote Wilderness Retreat (tel 767/448-2287, tel 448-2285, ; US$75-100), a lovely inn with eight simply decorated doubles and a botanical garden with hot spa pools that work wonders on sore muscles. Nearby, the bohemian Cocoa Cottages (tel 767/448-0412, ; US$75-100) has cheerful hammock-strung and mosquito-netted rooms, and intimate dining and living areas. The terrific River Rock Cafe below the falls serves local food like mountain chicken on a splendid terrace overlooking the rainforest. Lunch is served a la carte, but dinner must be ordered in advance. The Papillote Wilderness Retreat (dinner reservations required) also serves divine flying fish, tuna, prawns and chicken dishes, along with fresh juices, on an open-air terrace. To reach the falls by car , take the road heading east from Roseau, taking a right fork 2.5 miles inland and following the signs to the village of Trafalgar. The trailhead is on the right, about a mile onwards, facing the Papillote Wilderness Retreat . Buses are fairly regular; look for ones marked "Trafalgar" at the stop facing the Botanical Gardens on Trafalgar Road (EC$2.50). Taxis from Roseau cost EC$50.
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