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There are a few islands accessible from Tortola that are worth a visit. PETER ISLAND , three miles across the Francis Drake Channel from Tortola, is home to the luxurious Peter Island Resort and Yacht Harbour (tel 284/495-2000 or 1-800/346-4457, fax 284/495-2500, ; US$250 +), which offers sea-view rooms, an all-inclusive range of watersports, tennis, bikes, hiking and sailing activities, and extremely elegant dining at its Tradewinds Restaurant (also open to non-guests). Non-guests can visit the island and use the secluded, palm-fringed beaches - the Peter Island Ferry (tel 284/494-9647) connects the island with Road Town on Tortola (US$14 one-way; free if you have a reservation at Tradewinds ). There's more casual fare - wood-oven pizzas and salads - available at Deadman's Beach Bar and Grill . Peaceful, unpretentious and good value, COOPER ISLAND , four miles east of Peter Island, has a lone hotel and a few vacation homes. The Cooper Island Beach Club (tel 413/863-3162 or 1-800/542-4624, fax 413/863-3662, ) offers twelve doubles (US$160-200) and two beach houses (tel 513/232-4126; US$250 +) set on beautiful Manchioneel Bay with its long beach and fantastic snorkelling - the thick, sea grass attracts a dazzling assortment of green turtles, eagle rays and huge queen conch. There are no roads and no cars on the island - the ferry (tel 284/494-3311) that carts guests and non-guests (US$10) back and forth from the Prospect Reef Resort on Tortola is the only access.

Eight-acre MARINA CAY , which offers great snorkelling, was made famous by author Robb White and his wife, Rodie, who moved here in 1936, built a home and lived without running water or electricity. His book about the experience, Two on an Isle , was made into a movie in the 1950s, starring Sidney Poitier. The only place to stay on the island is Marina Cay Resort (tel 284/494-2174, fax 494-4775, ; US$160-200), connected to Trellis Bay by a short ferry ride (8 daily; free), which has basic rooms or two-bedroom villas. The old White residence is still here, recently restored by Pusser's (owners of the resort) into The Hilltop Bar ; it hosts barbecues, and has live music. A more extensive menu is available at the Pusser's beachside restaurant, whose bar has a happy hour daily from 4pm to 7pm.

Uninhabited and largely untamed NORMAN ISLAND , the westernmost BVI, is only accessible by hired boat and there are no places to stay, yet thousands of people in high season flock here every day to snorkel and soak up the party atmosphere - and look for gold. Rumours are that there is hidden treasure all over the island - three chests of gold have reportedly been discovered since the mid-1700s, and it's stories such as these that have led some to suggest that Norman Island was the model for Robert Louis Stevenson's Treasure Island .

The party scene revolves around two bars (both of which also serve

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food). Billy Bones (tel 284/494-4770, ), with its own private stretch of beach, draws crowds with its strong drinks and loud music. The other hot spot, the bar/restaurant The Willy T (tel 284/494-0183, ), is a converted schooner permanently moored in the Bight, a large bay and a popular anchorage for yachters. It's one of the most raucous and unusual drinking spots in the BVI and the top deck often sees inebriated patrons removing their clothes and diving into the water.


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10/12/2008 12:05:44 AM

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