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JOST VAN DYKE , named after the seventeenth-century Dutch pirate who made it his hideaway, is a tiny, undeveloped, mountainous island three miles off the northwest coast of Tortola. This idyll of wooded hills and secluded bays has changed little since a Quaker colony settled here in the 1700s to farm sugarcane - in fact most of the island's 160 inhabitants (all either Chinnerys or Callwoods) are descended from Quaker slaves. The island has only had electricity for ten years, not everywhere has running water, there's only one paved road and the low-key tourist scene owes much to the yachts that stop here to clear customs in Great Harbour. Yet sailors and tourists alike flock here to enjoy the magical combination of friendly locals, unspoilt beauty and party atmosphere: two of its bars are famous and have helped earn Jost Van Dyke the title of party capital of BVI. The three main areas of activity are all on the south side of the island and accessible by car or boat. The focal point is the palm-fringed beach and settlement of Great Harbour . The beach isn't the best on the island for swimming but has the advantage of being close to the amenities along sandy laid-back Main Street, where you'll find rooms for rent, a handful of bars, boutiques, a provision store and even an ice cream shop. Foxy's , tucked in the corner, is the major draw. White Bay , half a mile to the west beyond Pull and Be Damm Point, has the island's best beach and is home to its other famous drinking hole, the Soggy Dollar Bar , as well as a hotel and a few bars and shops. Just over a mile to the east of Great Harbour, Little Harbour is a good place to eat - the spiny lobster here will be the biggest you've seen in your life. Although no scuba diving or sailing outfits operate on Jost Van Dyke, many on Tortola will pick you up if you're staying on the island. You can rent dinghies from Sharkies Dinghy Rental at Little Harbour (tel 284/495-9487).
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