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After a hot and sticky stint labouring across the coastal plains, the little-visited southern and central highlands , with their host of ethnic minorities, mist-laden mountains and crashing waterfalls, can provide an enjoyable contrast. Many of the highlands' 2.5 million inhabitants are montagnards ("mountain folk") from Bahnar, Ede, Jarai, Sedang, Koho and Mnong ethnic minorities , but visiting their villages independently can be difficult and is best done by basing yourself at the highland towns of Buon Me Thuot and Kon Tum , from where you can either book a tour or take a Honda om. For most tourists up here, the main target is Da Lat , a former French mountain retreat that unfortunately is not as idyllic as it sounds (dreary architecture and drearier tourist trappings), though it does have its charms, among them some beguiling colonial buildings, picturesque bike rides and a market overflowing with fruit and vegetables.
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