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PATARA (www.patara.org) , reachable by regular dolmus from Fethiye and Kas in season (otherwise, Fethiye-Kas buses will drop you 4km north of the site), was the principal port of Lycia, famed for its oracle of Apollo and as the birthplace of St Nicholas. Two kilometres from the modern village of Gelemis , the site (daily: summer 7.30am-7pm; winter 8am-5pm; $4; ticket valid for a week) is marked by a triple-arched Roman gateway, which is reasonably intact and adjacent to some recently excavated tombs. Also on view are some well-preserved baths and a small temple lodged in a course of boundary wall. To the south, 1km from the beach, is a theatre, the cavea of which is now half full of sand - although the stage building is partly intact. Nowadays Patara is best known for its white sand beach , served by dolmus from Gelemis. It can get a bit crowded in season, but the walk along the dunes towards the river mouth, 7km northwest, turns up more than enough solitary spots. If you are planning to visit Patara or Gelemis out of season it's best to call ahead, as most facilities close down for winter. Mosquitoes are a constant problem in Patara and all good pensions equip their rooms with nets; check before committing yourself. Accommodation can fill up quickly, so you'd do best to reserve at the better places. Best budget option is the family-run Flower (tel 0242/843 5164; under GBP5/$8) at the entrance to the village, which has excellent en-suite rooms with balconies and home-cooking. They will also pick you up from the main road for free, and from Dalaman Airport for petrol money. Just behind this is the reasonable Rose (tel 0242/843 5173; under GBP5/$8), with basic, clean, en-suite rooms with balconies. They also offer the same pick-up deals, and, unusually, stay open in winter. Another choice is the Otlu brothers' long-running Golden Pansiyon (tel 0242/843 5162; GBP5-10/$8-16) at the crossroads, which has been joined by their posher, and well-positioned Patara View Point Hotel (tel 0242/843 5184, www.pataraviewpoint.com ; GBP10-15/$16-24) on the ridge east of the main crossroads, which has a pool and Internet access. Another good option in the centre of the village is the St Nicolas Pansiyon (tel 0242/843 5154, stnicolaspansion@hotmail.com ; GBP5-10/$8-16). Eating possibilities aren't scintillating, with names and themes changing often; the Golden Pansiyon's diner often has trout, as do several others, best of which is the Sofra. The two cafes down at the beach feature manti , meat ravioli in yoghurt.
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