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Side





About 25km east of Aspendos, SIDE , a ruined Hellenistic port and one-time trysting place of Antony and Cleopatra, was perhaps the foremost of the Pamphylian cities. The ruins of the ancient port just about survive; over the last ten years or so, the development of myriad theme-hotel complexes has obliterated areas of real archeological interest. The beaches are superb, but if you're more interested in the ruins, try and visit out of season.

Fortunately, the buildings and monuments that remain are still impressive. The city walls are particularly well preserved, with a number of towers still in place, and the agora is today fringed with the stumps of many remaining columns. Opposite the agora is the site of the former Roman baths , now restored to house a museum (Tues-Sun 9am-noon & 1.30-5pm; $5) with a cross-section of locally unearthed objects - mainly Roman statuary, reliefs and sarcophagi. South of here, a still-intact monumental gateway serves as an entrance to the modern resort and to Side's 15,000-seat theatre , the largest in Pamphylia, and supported by arched vaults rather than built into a hillside, unlike those at Perge and Aspendos. At the back of the theatre, reached via the agora, is a row of ancient toilets, complete with niches for statues facing the cubicles. To the west of town, the beach stretches for about 10km, lined by hotels and beach clubs, though the crowds can be heavy during high season. To the east the sands are emptier and stretch all the way to Alanya, though there's less in the way of facilities.

Buses from Antalya most often drop off at MANAVGAT , 10km east of Side; dolmuses from the street behind Manavgat's otogar will take you to Side's new otogar , which is around 1km from the central waterfront, close to the monumental gateway. From here you can either walk, take a taxi or a tractor-drawn "tourist train" into the centre. Travelling on from Side, the best bus connections are from Manavgat.

Side's tourist office (summer daily 8am-6pm; winter Mon-Fri 9am-5pm; tel 0242/753 1265) is out of town, 300m from the otogar , but offers nothing other than a feeble map. Accommodation possibilities are endless, although Side is thronging with north European package tourists from mid-March onwards and pansiyon prices are relatively steep. Most options are in the warren of alleys east of the main street. Morning Star (tel 0242/753 1134; under GBP5/$8) is friendly and has en-suite rooms, upper-floor ones with balconies; Evin (tel 0242/753 1074; under GBP5/$8) has clean, bright rooms near the agora, beside the friendly Yildirim Pansiyon (tel 0242/753 3209; under GBP5/$8), with a shaded courtyard and pool table; while Hanimeli Pansiyon (tel 0242/753 1789; GBP5-10/$8-16) on Turgut Reis Sok offers en-suite doubles. For camping , there are a number of sites along the western beach, beginning about 500m from the theatre. There's no shortage of places to eat and drink : pricey Charlies Restaurant off Liman

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Cad offers locally caught fish and kebabs and nice views over the harbour; the better-value Aphrodite offers a variety of fish dishes including excellent swordfish. The Apollonik , just west of the temple of Apollo, is an atmospheric bar , while Pasakoy Bar on Liman Cad is notable as a masterpiece of kitsch. Further east, Stones Bar and Barracuda are louder and offer fine views out onto the Mediterranean. Side Internet Cafe is near the harbour.


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11/23/2008 12:31:26 AM

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