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DALYAN ( www.dalyan.net ), 7km off Highway 400, is one of the calmer resorts along this stretch of coast, and a good base for surrounding attractions. Life here centres on the Dalyan River, which flows past the village: the one drawback in the summer months is mosquitoes, especially along the riverbank, for which the area has been notorious since antiquity. Go armed with a good repellent, and drop into any good pharmacy to buy an esemymat , a machine that you plug into the electricity supply to kill the critters. There are a string of pleasant pensions on the riverbank, one of the nicest being Midas (tel 0252/284 2195; GBP5-10/$8-16), at the far end, or the newly refurbished Lindos (tel 0252/284 2005, lindos@superonline.com ; GBP5-10/$8-16), next door, also has a couple of cabin rooms right on the water; other good options are Aktas (tel 0252/284 2042; GBP5-10/$8-16), or its friendly neighbour, Miletos (tel 0252/284 2532; under GBP5/$8), both of which include breakfast in the room price. Restaurants are fairly undistinguished; the riverfront Denizat s and Caretta are typical - and pricey. There's better home cooking at Dostlar Sofrasi , below Altay Pansiyon , where you'll come away replete for less than $3. Istuzu Beach , a twenty-minute ride by regular boat service from Dalyan, is the breeding ground of the loggerhead turtle (May-Oct: no admission at night). During the day the beach is open to the public, and is a good place to swim and sunbathe, although you should be careful of disturbing the turtle eggs and nests, which are easily disrupted. You can also visit the nearby ruins of the Greek city of Kaunos ; it's a river-boat crossing ($1), followed by a twenty-minute walk.
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