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Although by no means the most spectacular archeological site in Turkey, TROY (Truva) is probably the most celebrated, thanks to its key role in Homer's Iliad . The ruins of the ancient city, just west of the main road around 20km south of Canakkale, are on a much smaller scale than other sites, consisting mainly of defensive walls, a small theatre and the remains of a temple. Many visitors come away disappointed, but it's worth remembering that the settlement dates back to the late Bronze Age, making Troy far older than most other Classical cities. It was generally thought to have existed in legend only until 1871, when a German businessman, Heinrich Schliemann, excavated the site. Schliemann's work actually caused a certain amount of damage, and he removed many of his discoveries to Germany without permission, but his digging uncovered nine layers of remains, representing distinct and consecutive city developments spanning four millennia. The oldest, Troy I, dates back to about 3600 BC and was followed by four similar settlements. Troy VI is known to have been destroyed by an earthquake in about 1275 BC, while Troy VII shows signs of having been destroyed by fire about 25 years later, around the time historians generally estimate the Trojan War to have taken place. Troy VIII, which thrived from 700 to 300 BC, was a Greek city, while the final layer of development, Troy IX, was built between 300 BC and 300 AD, during the heyday of the Roman Empire. Canakkale is the most sensible base for seeing Troy. Despite what pension owners and tour operators will tell you, frequent dolmuses ($1) run from Canakkale's minibus station direct to the site, whereas an "organized" tour will set you back $10-12 per person. You'll find a cluster of shops and overpriced eateries by the dolmus stop, and the nearby village of TEVFIKIYE has a couple of rather feeble pensions. The site (daily 8am-7pm; winter closes 5pm; $4) is signalled by the ticket office opposite the bus drop-off point, from where a road leads to a giant wooden horse. Just beyond is the ruined city itself, a craggy outcrop overlooking the plain, which stretches about 8km to the sea. It's a fantastic view, and despite the sparseness of the remains, as you stand on what's left of the ramparts and look out across the plain it's not too difficult to imagine a besieging army camped out below. Walking around the site, the walls of Troy VI are the most obvious feature, curving around in a crescent from the entrance; there are also more definite and visible remains from Troys VIII and IX, including a council chamber and a small theatre a little way north.
Your Tip for Troy
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