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Tucked away at the eastern end of the lake which bears its name, the sleepy little town of IZNIK boasts extensive, well-preserved ruins. Originally the ancient Greek city of Nicaea, as a Christian centre it later gave its name to the Nicene Creed which affirmed the divinity of Christ. When Istanbul fell to the Crusaders in 1204, Nicaea became the Byzantine capital. Under the Ottomans, the city became a centre for ceramic production, an art which has been recently revived. Orientation is easy thanks to the Hellenistic grid street-plan, and you're free to wander the length of the Byzantine city walls which enclose almost everything of interest. The tourist office is in the centre of town, Kilicaslan Cad 130 (Mon-Fri 8.30am-noon & 1-5.30pm; tel 0224/757 1933), opposite the Aya Sofya Museum (daily 9am-noon & 1-6.30pm; $1), the remains of a Byzantine church originally founded by Justinian. To the northeast lie the Haci Ozbek Camii - the earliest-known Ottoman mosque, built in 1333 - and the later Yesil Camii (Green Mosque), so named for the green tiles decorating its minaret. Across the park sprawls the fourteenth-century Nilufer Hatun Imareti , a religious hostel which nowadays houses Iznik's Archeological Museum (daily 9.30am-noon & 1-6.30pm; $1), displaying artefacts from nearby Neolithic settlements and some fabulous examples of Ottoman Iznik ceramics. In the mid-1990s, the Iznik Foundation ( www.iznik.com ) restarted local ceramic production using original materials and techniques; their factory (free tours daily 9am-7pm) is signposted as Iznik Vakfi on Hali Saha Arkasi, beyond the remains of the Roman amphitheatre outside the walls to the southwest. Buses arrive at Iznik's tiny otogar , southeast of the centre, from where everything is within walking distance. In summer, what accommodation there is tends to fill up so you should reserve in advance. The English-speaking Kaynarca Pansiyon , Gundem Sok 1 (tel 0224/757 1723; under GBP5/$8) is backpacker-friendly and provides a useful map; there's satellite TV in every room and an attached Internet cafe. With views over the lake are the Camlik Motel (tel 0224/757 1631; GBP5-10/$8-16), with en-suite doubles, and Cem Pansiyon (tel 0224/757 1687; under GBP5/$8), with rooms ensuite and not. Eating isn't great. The fish restaurants on the coast road Sahil Yolu include the Sahil Restaurant , which can manage grills and has a good range of meze . There's a row of cheap restaurants behind Aya Sofya, including the funky old Konat Barbeku Izgara , which has good stews and pide . The Tutku Bar on Sahil Yolu has a big-screen TV showing local football games.
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