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Though celebrated for its setting on the Dardanelles, CANAKKALE has little to detain you. However, it is the best base for visiting the Gelibolu (Gallipoli) sites and the sparse ruins of Troy . Almost everything of interest in Canakkale is within walking distance of the ferry docks , close to the start of the main Demircioglu Caddesi. The nearby tourist office (daily 8am-8pm; winter closes 5pm; tel 0286/217 1187) is worth a stop if only for their free map of the Gallipoli battlefields. The bus station is out on the coastal highway Ataturk Caddesi, a 15-minute walk from the waterfront; if you're arriving on the bus from Istanbul, get off at the ferry rather than going out to the bus station. In the town, the Cimenlik Park (daily 9am-8pm), southwest of the bazaar, houses a replica of the minelayer Nusrat, which stymied the Allied fleet by re-mining zones at night that the French and British had swept clean by day; it is festooned inside with rather forgettable newspaper clippings of the era. The Naval Museum nearby (daily 9am-noon & 1.30-5pm; $1) is more worthwhile, featuring photos and military paraphernalia, including Ataturk's pocket watch which stopped a shell fragment at Gelibolu and saved his life. Some 2km south of the centre, the Archeological Museum (daily 8am-noon & 1-5pm; $1) is accessible by any dolmus along Ataturk Caddesi labelled "Kepez" or "Guzelyali" and has exhibits from all over the area, including exquisite gold jewellery from nearby tombs. Except for a crowded couple of weeks during mid-August during the Canakkale/Troy Festival, or on ANZAC Day (April 25) when the town is inundated with Antipodeans, you'll have little trouble finding budget accommodation . Anzac House , Cumhuriyet Meydana 61 (tel 0286/213 5969, www.anzachouse.com ; GBP5-10/$8-16), has small but neat rooms and Internet access, as well as dorm beds (under GBP5/$8). The clean and airy, newly renovated Yellow Rose , Yeni Sok 5 (tel 0286/217 3343, www.yellowrose.4mg.com ; under GBP5/$8), in the street behind Kervanseray , is a good option with some en-suite rooms, Internet access and dorms (under GBP5/$8). The eccentric, dilapidated Kervanseray round the corner at Fetvahane Sok 13 (tel 0286/217 8192; under GBP5/$8) is a quiet place in an old mansion. More upmarket, the Anafartalar , overlooking the ferry landing (tel 0286/217 4454; GBP10-15/$16-24), offers en-suite doubles with TV and fabulous views over the straits, breakfast included. There are several campsites - at Guzelyala, Dardanos and Kepez - all accessible by minibus from the minibus garage. The expansion of the local university has led to a broadening of Cannakale's restaurant and cafe options. On the quayside south of the ferry jetty, the long-established Entellektuel isn't cheap but offers great fish and scenic views. One street back from the water, Dada xs m , 17 Yala Cad, offers a good range of kebabs and stews, while one street further inland, the female-run Koy Ev , 15 Fetvahane Sok, offers a taste of real Turkish home cooking. Nearby on Cumhuriyet Cad, Ta x Firin does a brisk trade in lahmacun and pide -style fast food. For drinking , there is a burgeoning cafe and bar scene on Yala Cad and Fetvahane Sok, with the latter boasting the current top spot, Depo. The TNT bar on Saat Kule Meydana is popular with the Anzac crowd. There are also numerous Internet cafe options in this area, with Efe Internet Cafe overlooking the water.
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