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Some 8km southwest of Selcuk lies Meryemana (daily dawn-dusk; $3), a tiny Greek chapel where some Orthodox theologians believe the Virgin Mary passed her last years, having travelled to the region with St John the Evangelist, who is buried on Ayasoluk hill. Evidence of Mary's residence is somewhat circumstantial but that doesn't stop coach tours to Ephesus making the detour. The chapel's appeal is all spiritual, with regular Catholic masses (summer daily 7.15am, Sun also 10.30am). SIRINCE , to the south and served by hourly minibuses from Selcuk, is a 600-year-old Greek stone village where, against the odds, the winemaking tradition has been continued by Muslim Turks who settled here in the 1920s. Numerous local vintages are on offer in the village's many shops. There are several accommodation options, including the beautifully restored village houses which make up Sirince Evler (tel 0232/898 3209; GBP40/$64 and over). Some 12km along the road from Selcuk to Aydin, CAMLIK is the site of Turkey's Open-Air Rail Museum (daily 8am-8pm; $1; www.tcdd3bolge.gov.tr/muze.htm ) which boasts 29 steam locomotives and a host of other rolling stock, mostly pre-World War I; the oldest dates back to 1887. You don't have to be a trainspotter to enjoy clambering into the cabs and operating the hand wound turntable.
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