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ASSOS , 70km south of Canakkale, is a tiny stone village built on a hill around the ruins of the ancient town, founded in the sixth century BC and once home to Aristotle. The ruins (daily 8.30am-7pm; winter closes 5pm; $1) are for the most part blissfully untouristed; the Temple of Athena has had its Doric columns re-erected, and there are fabulous views from here to the Greek island of Lesvos 10km offshore, while downhill lie the recently unearthed theatre and necropolis . The only transport is a minibus from AYVACIK , 25km to the north, which passes through both the upper village of Assos and its twin settlement downhill around the fishing harbour; it runs according to demand, so out of season you may have a long wait. On summer weekends, rooms may be hard to find and prices double or triple those midweek. Pensions in the upper village are all in restored stone houses and include the delightful Timur Pansiyon (tel 0286/721 7449, www.hitit.co.uk/timur ; under GBP5/$8), which offers waterless doubles, and Dolunay (tel 0286/721 7172; GBP5-10/$8-16), which has ensuite doubles; both include breakfast. Down on the shore are several beautiful but expensive stone-built hotels, which can generally be bargained down in midweek and also offer half-board; longest-running is the seriously plush Hotel Assos (tel 0286/721 7107; GBP35-40/$56-64) right on the harbour, but the unlikely named Dr No Pansiyon (tel 0286/721 7076; under GBP5/$8) which has waterless and ensuite doubles is more affordable. Further along the shore are several small campsites including Catir (tel 0286/721 7048) which also has several shacks for rent (GBP5-10/$8-16).
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