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Almost always referred to simply as Ubon - not to be confused with Udon (Udon Thani) to the north - UBON RATCHATHANI , east of Surin, is Thailand's fifth-largest city, but only worth stopping at en route to the prehistoric cliff paintings at Pha Taem and the Laos border. If you're here in early July though, drop by for the Ubon Candle Festival, when huge beeswax sculptures are paraded through the streets. Aside from its confusing number of arrival points, central Ubon is easy enough to negotiate. The main hotel and eating area is between Thanon Sumpasit in the north and the Maenam Mun River in the south. Of the city's eight main wats, Wat Thung Si Muang , in the middle of this zone near the post office, is the most noteworthy, mainly for its unusually well-preserved teak library - raised on stilts over an artificial pond to keep book-devouring insects at bay. The murals in the bot, to the left of the library, display lively scenes of everyday nineteenth-century life. Ubon's museum (Wed-Sun 8.30am-4.30pm; B10), housed in the blue-and-grey building opposite the Ubon Hotel on Thanon Kaenthani, has decent displays on the region's geology, history and folk crafts. There's a good northeastern crafts shop , called Phanchat, at two locations on Thanon Ratchabut (50m east of the museum, off Thanon Kaenthani). The larger branch is next to a motorbike showroom at no. 158, between the park and Thanon Kaenthani; the smaller branch is off the south side of Thanon Kaenthani. Both specialize in fine-quality regional goods, such as triangular pillows and silk.
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