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The riverside village of THAT PHANOM sprawls around Wat Phra That Phanom, one of the four sacred pillars of Thai religion, which reputedly dates back to the eighth year after the death of the Buddha (535 BC), when local princes built a simple chedi to house bits of his breastbone. It's a fascinating place of pilgrimage that used to serve both Thais and the Lao, but since 1975, the Lao have only been allowed to cross the river for the annual February festival and the Monday- and Thursday-morning waterfront markets. The white-and-gold chedi looks like a giant upturned table leg. From each of the four sides, an eye stares down, and the whole thing is surmounted by an umbrella made of 16kg of gold. Look out for the brick reliefs above three of the doorways in the base: the northern side shows Vishnu mounted on a garuda; on the western side, the four guardians of the earth are shown putting offerings in the Buddha's alms bowl; and above the south door, there's a carving of the Buddha entering Nirvana. Frequent buses and songthaews connect That Phanom with Nakhon Phanom (every 10min; 1hr), Mukdahan and Ubon Ratachathani, and stop outside the wat. The centre of the village is 200m due east of here, around the pier on the Mekong. That Phanom's outstanding accommodation choice is the welcoming Niyana Guesthouse, 288 Moo 2, Thanon Rimkhong (tel 042/540588; under $5), four blocks north of the pier, which has pleasant rooms set in a garden facing the river. The owner rents out bicycles and organizes boat trips.
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