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Best known for its hugely hyped elephant round-up every November, SURIN , 197km east of Khorat, is an otherwise typical northeastern town but makes a good base for Phanom Rung, is an excellent place to buy silk, and has a fine guesthouse. Surin's only official sight is its museum (Mon-Fri 8.30am-4.30pm; free), a tiny one-room exhibition on Thanon Chitramboong featuring stacks of carvings and, more interestingly, several sacred elephant ropes formerly used by the local Suay. The best place to buy Surin's famous silk weave is from the women who sell their cloth around the Tannasarn-Krungsrinai intersection. Otherwise try the shop opposite the Ubon Hotel on Thanon Tannasarn, the Ruen Mai Silk Shop on Thanon Chitramboong, or Netcraft next to Phetkasem Hotel. One of the best reasons for coming to Surin is to take one of the excellent local tours organized from Pirom's Guesthouse (tel 044/515140). Pirom is a highly informed social worker whose day-trips give tourists an unusual glimpse into rural northeastern life. Tours are usually only available on weekends, prices range from B280 to B590 per person, and you can choose from village tours, Khmer ruins, or the Cambodian border market. The train station is on the northern edge of town, ten minutes' walk from the central market area on Thanon Krungsrinai. The bus terminal is one block east of the train station. Pirom's Guesthouse, one block west of the market at Thanon 242 Krungsrinai (tel 044/515140; under $5), is one of the friendliest in Isaan. Rooms have shared facilities, and there's a B60 dorm; they're planning to relocate to a spot north of the railway tracks, so call first to check. The next best options are New Hotel, near the station at Thanon 22 Tannasarn (tel 044/511341; under $10), and the friendly Nit Diew Hotel, near the post office at 155-161 Thanon Tannasarn (tel 044/512099; $5-10). For the best in Isaan food , head for the traditional Sai Yen on Thanon Chitramboong. Surin's lively night market is on the eastern end of Thanon Krungsrinai. The Worldnet Internet Cafe is located on the corner of Thanon Thetsabarn and Thanon Thetsabarn 1.
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