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SRI CHIANGMAI , 38km east of Sang Khom, is one of the world's leading manufacturing centres of spring-roll wrappers (200,000 pieces on a good day): if the weather's fine, you can see them drying on bamboo racks around the town. The town also offers the unique opportunity of gazing at the backstreets of Vientiane, directly across the Mekong. Here again, one outstanding guesthouse makes the town accessible to farangs who want to experience its daily life. Tim Guesthouse (tel 042/451072; under $5) has clean, quiet rooms at 553 Moo 2, Thanon Rimkhong (the riverfront road), dishes up tasty Thai and Western food and can arrange herbal saunas, massages, bicycle (B30) and motorbike (B150) rental. The guesthouse is a handy jumping-off point for Ban Phu , 40km south, and you can do one-hour sunset boat trips (B40) or longer ones past the Vientiane suburbs to Wat Hin Ma Beng (B800 per boat). Frequent buses and songthaews connect Sri Chiangmai with Nong Khai and Pak Chom.
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