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The most accessible and popular of the parks in Loei province, Phu Kradung National Park , about 80km south of Loei, protects a grassy 1300-metre plateau, whose temperate climate supports plant and bird species not normally found in tropical Thailand. Walking trails crisscross much of the plateau and take three days to explore fully; the trip from Loei to the top of the plateau and back can't be done in a day. The park is closed during the rainy season (June-Sept), and October is muddy, though the waterfalls are in full cascade; December brings out the maple leaves, and April is good for the rhododendrons and wild roses. Elephants, sambar deer and gibbons can be seen very occasionally year-round. Most hikers take at least three hours to do the gruelling main trail from the visitor centre up the eastern side of Phu Kradung (5km). It gets steep and rocky at the end, but the view from the rim is well worth the slog. Several feeder trails fan out from here, including a twelve-kilometre path along the precipitous southern edge. Another trail heads along the eastern rim for 2.5km to Pha Nok An - also reached by a two-kilometre path due east from the park headquarters. To get to the park , take any bus between Loei and Khon Kaen and get off at the village of Phu Kradung (1hr 30min), then hop on a B20 songthaew for the remaining 7km to the visitor centre (daily 7am-3pm), where you can pick up a trail map and pay the B20 admission fee. Leave your gear at the visitor centre, or hire a porter to tote it to the top for B10 per kilo. At park headquarters, up on the plateau, 8km from the visitor centre, you can rent out tents for B50-100 per day (or pitch your own for B5-10), and blankets for B10; there are food stalls at park headquarters and at the rim of the plateau. Or you can sleep and eat at the bungalows of Phu Kradung Resort, 2-3km from the visitor centre towards Phu Kradung village (tel 042/871076; $5-10).
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