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The tiny modern town of PHIMAI , 60km northeast of Khorat, is dominated by the exquisitely restored eleventh-century Khmer temple complex of Prasat Hin Phimai (daily 7.30am-6pm; B40). Built mainly of dusky pink and greyish-white sandstone, it was connected by a direct road to the Khmer capital Angkor and follows the classic precepts of Khmer temple design: a series of walls or galleries punctuated by false balustraded windows, surrounding an inner sanctuary containing several prangs (corn-cob-shaped tower), which house important religious images. Phimai's magnificent main prang has been restored to its original cruciform groundplan, complete with an almost full set of carved lintels, pediments and antefixes, and capped with a stone lotus bud. The carvings around the outside of the prang depict predominantly Hindu themes. Shiva - the Destroyer - dances above the main entrance to the southeast antechamber: his destruction dance heralds the end of the world and the creation of a new order. Most of the other external carvings pick out episodes from the Ramayana, starring heroic Rama and his band of faithful monkeys in endless battles against the evil Ravana. By the early thirteenth century, Phimai had been turned into a Buddhist temple and the main prang now houses Phimai's most important image, the Buddha sheltered by a seven-headed naga (snake). Much of the ancient carved stonework discovered at Phimai, but not fitted back into the renovated structure, can be seen at the open-air museum (Wed-Sun 8am-4.30pm; free) northeast of the ruins, just inside the old city walls. Direct buses to Phimai depart from Khorat's Bus Terminal 1 every half hour and take one and a half hours; they stop near the ruins. Phimai makes a much more appealing overnight stop than Khorat: Old Phimai Guesthouse (tel 044/471918; under $5) is a lovely old wooden house with a roof garden, just off Thanon Chomsudasadet near the ruins. Or you can try the less atmospheric Phimai Hotel (tel 044/471306; under $5), next to the bus station. Bai Teiy on Thanon Chomsudasadet serves tasty Thai dishes , including fresh fish, and keeps bus timetables. There is an Internet place near the Old Phimai Guesthouse.
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