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Half-hourly songthaews from Chiang Khan cover the beautiful, winding route to PAK CHOM , 41km downriver, where you can pick up a bus from Loei to continue your journey towards Nong Khai via Sang Khom and Sri Chiangmai. If you get stuck, the Pak Chom Guesthouse (under $5), at the west end of town, has primitive bungalows overlooking the river, and offers boat trips (B50 per hour), massages and a communal Thai-Lao dinner. Beyond Pak Chom, the road through the Mekong valley becomes flatter and straighter. Staying in one of the "backpackers' resorts" in idyllic SANG KHOM , 63km east of Pak Chom, puts you in the heart of an especially lush stretch of the river within easy biking distance of several villages and the meditation temple of Wat Hin Ma Beng , 19km east. You can rent bicycles (B70; guests only) and motorbikes (B200-300) at River Huts (tel 042/441012; under $5); they also do bicycle repairs, herbal saunas and great food. Further upstream, the bamboo huts at Buoy Guesthouse (042/441065; under $5) enjoy beautiful river views, and you can rent inner tubes, canoes and fishing boats. Next door, New TXK (Mama's) Guesthouse (under $5) has inexpensive but primitive huts, does boat trips (B50-100) and rents canoes and bikes (B40). Just out of town, at 138 Moo Lampuphan Pathang, Siam Bungalows (tel 042/441399; $5-10) has new, spacious huts on the river, some en-suite, and offers French and Thai food, a pool table, a small library, laundry service and TV. Motorbikes and mountain bikes can be rented.
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