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Fifty kilometres downriver of That Phanom, MUKDAHAN is the last stop on the Mekong trail before Highway 212 heads off inland to Ubon Ratchathani, 170km to the south. You may feel as if you're in the Wild East out here, but this is one of the fastest-developing provinces, owing to increasing friendship between Laos and Thailand and the proximity of Savannakhet , the second-biggest Lao city, just across the water; a bridge across the Mekong is planned. You can cross the Lao border here on the ferry (5 daily Mon-Fri 9am-4pm; 4 daily Sat 9.15am-4pm & Sun 10.30am & 3.30pm; B50). Travellers have been able to get Lao visas on arrival at Savannakhet in the past, but it's safer to obtain them first from Bangkok or Khon Kaen . Half-hourly buses from That Phanom and Ubon Ratchathani stop at the bus terminal, about 1km northwest of the centre on Highway 212. The daily market at the main river pier is good for fabrics and Chinese ceramics. The best budget accommodation is at Ban Thom Kasem (no English sign), a four-storey hotel centrally located at 25-25/2 Thanon Samut Sakdarak (tel 042/611235 or 612223; B160). You can access the Internet at CS Internet, 61 Thanon Songnang Sathet.
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