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Khao Yai National Park offers a realistic chance of seeing white-handed (lar) gibbons, pig-tailed macaques, hornbills, civets and barking deer, plus the possibility of sighting an elephant or a tiger. The park has lots of waterfalls and several undemanding walking trails; it's only 120km northeast of Bangkok, and is Thailand's most popular national park. The best way to see Khao Yai is to stay either in the park itself or just outside in the small town of Pak Chong; you have the choice of exploring the trails yourself or joining a backpackers' tour. Bring warm clothes as it gets cool at night. Twelve well-worn trails radiate from the area around the visitor centre and park headquarters at kilometre stone 37, and a few more branch off from the roads that cross the park. The main trails are numbered and should be easy to follow, and sketch maps are available at the visitor centre. One of the most popular trails runs from the park headquarters to Nong Pak Chee observation tower (trail 6; 4km; 2hr 30min), passing through forest and grassland and ending at a lakeside observation tower; from the tower it's 1km to the main road, then 2km back to the park headquarters. The trail from Haew Suwat waterfall to the Khao Laem ranger post (trail 5; 3km/2hr each way) features a waterfall and grassland, but is inaccessible in the rainy season; you'll need to hitch or walk the 6km of road from the park headquarters to Haew Suwat. The short walk from Haew Suwat waterfall to the Pha Kluai campsite (trail 4; 2hr round trip), is paved most of the way and offers a good chance of spotting gibbons, macaques, kingfishers and hornbills
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