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The village of BAN CHIANG achieved worldwide fame in 1966, when a rich seam of archeological remains was accidentally discovered. Clay pots, uncovered in human graves alongside sophisticated bronze objects, were dated to around 3000 BC, implying the same date for the bronze pieces, and Ban Chiang was immediately hailed as the vanguard of the Bronze Age, seven hundred years before Mesopotamia's discovery of the metal. Although a later, more accurate test set the date at around 2000 BC, Ban Chiang stands as one of the world's earliest bronze producers, its methods of smelting showing no signs of influence from northern China and other neighbouring bronze cultures, which suggests the area was the birthplace of Southeast Asian civilization; in 1992 it was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Ban Chiang's fine National Museum (daily except Tues 9am-4pm; tel 042/261351; B30) displays some of the choicest finds from Ban Chiang, including the late-period Ban Chiang clay pots, with their characteristic red whorled patterns on a buff background. In the grounds of Wat Pho Si Nai , on the south side of the village, two burial pits (times and price as for the museum) have been exposed to show how and where artefacts were found. To get to Ban Chiang from Khon Kaen or Nong Khai, you have to go via the charmless grey city of UDON THANI . The train station is a couple of kilometres out of town, off Thanon Prayak. A tuk-tuk to any of the bus terminals should be around B20. Buses pull into Udon Thani at a variety of locations: Loei, Phitsanulok and Chiang Mai services use the terminal on the town's western bypass; Nong Khai and Ban Phu buses leave from Talat Langsina market on the north side of town; Bangkok, Khorat, Khon Kaen, Nakhon Phanom, Sakhon Nakhon and Ubon Ratchathani services leave from the other main terminal on Thanon Sai Uthit. Direct songthaews to Ban Chiang run from Udon's morning market, Talat Thai Isaan, east of the centre (every 30min until 3.45pm; 1hr 30min), or you could catch a Sakhon Nakhon-bound bus (every 30min) to Ban Palu and then a motorized samlor (B20-30 per person) for the last 5km from the main road to the village. Heading back to Udon the same day by songthaew is problematic, as the service runs only until about 11.30am (every 30min) so you'll have to make do with a samlor and bus combination any later in the day. Udon's TAT office (8.30am-4.30pm; tel 042/325406) is northwest of the town centre on Thanon Mukmontri, and if you need to stay in Udon, the clean, fan-cooled rooms at Prachapakdee Hotel at 156/7-9 Thanon Prajak (tel 042/221804; under $5) are your best budget bet. The night market sets up on Thanon Makkeng between Saengluang and Srisuk roads. However, the excellent Lakeside Sunrise Guesthouse (042/208167; under $5) in Ban Chiang itself is a much more appealing option, and you can rent bikes here too. Facing the museum, head left then turn right at the first intersection; it's just a few minutes' walk.
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